Read David Hackett Fischer’s biography  “Champlain’s Dream”.

Born in Brouage, near La Rochelle, France c. 1570. His father was a self-made, successful mariner and wealthy businessman. Born a Huguenot and later converted to Catholicism. He was a mariner from an early age and a skilled pilot and navigator.

His early transatlantic voyages were to the Caribbean and Central America in 1599-1601. In 1603, he was invited to participate in a voyage to French Canada, returning to France later the same year. The following year he set off again.

September 1604, sailed from St Croix (Passmaquoddy Bay) along the Acadia coast (he referenced the land as Norumbegue. He called it Isle de Mont Desert)  – Lat 43 30’- and up the Penobscot river (which he called Pentagonet) to the vicinity of what is now Bangor. He named the island Isle Haut. (Now Isle au Haut)

Samuel de Champlain’s map of the northeast coast, 1607.

(from commons.wikimedia.org)

The Camden Hills he identified as a very conspicuous landmark that could be seen 12-15 leagues out to sea – the indians called them Bedabedec.

Champlain considered the Penobscot to extend further inland than any other river with the possible exception of the river he called Quinibequy (Kennebec).

On Sept 20, due to bad weather he sought shelter at an island 10 leagues from Quinibequy, possibly Matinic.

Champlain concluded that the winter in the area was as disagreeable as it was in St Croix. A reason for their exploration South had been to look for a more agreeable site for settlement.

Starting June 1605 de Monts and Champlain made a very detailed survey as far as Cape Cod. From St Croix they sailed inside Grand Manan Island along the coast from Bedabedec Point to what they called Tortoise Island (Seguin). They also explored Frenchman’s Bay next to Mount Desert.

July 1, they arrived at the mouth of the Qininbequy – fog bound, anchored close to Popham until July 5 when they entered the river. A very dangerous rocky entrance but passable if the channel was well marked. They met altogether three Indian chiefs – Manthoumermer, Marchin and Sasmou (chief of the river).

Route taken – up the Kennebec, up Back River into Hockamock Bay – then South around southern end of Westport Island into Sheepscot River up to Wiscasset – back down west side of Westport Island around Hockamock Point  into Sasano River, through Upper Hell Gate , Sagadahoc, the Neck into Merrymeeting Bay (Bath)  at the junction of the Kennebec and the Androscoggin rivers.

He considered the land along the river bank to be very poor – rocks on both sides and very  little arable land. Plenty of fish, though.

July 8 – fog delayed. Large mountain to the West (White Mountains) in which is the dwelling place of Sachem, Aneda, who encamped near the Quinibequy.

Leaving the river, sailed southwest directly to Cape Elizabeth – anchored behind Stratton Island (they didn’t name it), then on to Richmond Island where there were fine oak trees, nut trees and grapes. They called it Isle de Bacchus.

Champlain’s map of Saco Bay and the Saco River, 1605

On to Saco. Met Honemachin (young and agile). Indians shaved their hair far up on their head and wear what remains very long which they comb and twist behind them, intertwined with feathers. They paint their faces black and red.

Sunday July 12 – they saw red-winged blackbirds – sailed to Island harbor (Cape Porpoise). Lat 43 30’

Passed the Isle of Shoals, not named, (which he noted had four islands) on his way to round Cape Ann.  On East side of Cape Ann, three islands (now called Straitsmouth, Thatcher and Milk). They called it Island Cape. 

Boston Harbor – Samuel de Champlain’s map 1607

Sailed into Massachusetts Bay to the islands off Boston harbor, which they called Cap St Louis. Into the harbor, they named the Charles River, River du Guast. Then on to New Plimouth harbor, which they called Port du Cap St Louis.

New Plimouth Harbor -Samuel de Champlain’s map 1605

Sailed along Cape Cod coast to Cape Cod Bay. They called Cape Cod  Cap Blanc. Wellfleet harbor they called St Suzanne du Cap Blanc.

By July 20 they had sailed along the East coast of Cape Cod to the dangerous mouth of an inlet, with shoals and sandbanks – breakers in all directions – entered the spacious inlet with a pretty harbor they called Port du Mallebarre , now Nauset harbor.

Sept 12 they returned north via the Kennebec to Monhegan, which they called Isle la Nef, then to Isle au Haut to return to St. Croix.

Second voyage

Starting Sept 12 from St Croix followed their previous course via the Isle of Bacchus (Richmond Island) off Cape Elizabeth and on to Chouacoet (Saco river), arriving Sept 21. They met chief Honemechin again. Then to Cape Ann. Due to adverse weather they sheltered in Gloucester harbor which they called Le Beauport.

200 indians there, the chief was called Quiouhamenec.  Champlain entertained him and a neighbor called Cohouepech and Honemachin, came from Saco to visit.

Beauport (Gloucester) – Samuel de Champlain’s map 1604

Fine meadows around or close to Le Beauport harbor, capable of supporting a large number of cattle, The harbor was very fine, affording shelter from the weather behind the islands. Lat 43.

Sept 30 sailed to Cap Blanc (Cape Cod) and entered Barnstable harbor, Port aux Huistres. Lat 42. Oct 2, they sailed north a quarter north east five leagues around tip of  Cape Cod and on to Mallebarre. Many indians. Due to bad weather they did not enter Mallebarre. Sailed on some six leagues and anchored off the coast. Next day sailed back five leagues north and found shoals and breaking seas round them a league or more from the coast. Crossed a sandy point running nearly three leagues seaward to south south east they considered a very dangerous place. Rounding this cape which they called Cap Batturier ( In the vicinity of what is now Monomoy Point) which is twelve/thirteen leagues from Mallebarre, anchored in two and a half fathoms with breakers all round them. Indians guided them to a river and secure harbor, Stage harbor, Chatham which they called Port Fortune. Many indians living in the area, as many as 500-600, with much agriculture.

To store their harvested corn over the winter, they make trenches in the sand 5 or 6 feet deep. Put their corn into grass sacks and bury them, to feed off through the winter as needed.

All the harbors, bays and coast from Saco onwards are filled with fish and not a day they didn’t see a thousand porpoises. A profusion of oysters and game birds.

An excellent place for a settlement, if the harbor had been deeper.

Local indians were frightened of the tribe further south, who were their enemies.

Indians were not to be trusted and attacked, killing some of Champlain’s seamen.

They left and sailed  past Martha’s Vineyard which they called La Soupconneuse. Wood’s Hole tidal passage they called Champlain, thinking it was a river mouth but difficult to enter  very rocky.

They then returned the way they had come to St Croix.

Thereafter, he focused his attention on French Canada and the St Lawrence River. He explored, built French settlements and established strong commercial relations with the local populations over the next 30 years, travelling between Canada and France every year or so. He died in Canada in 1635.

It is clear that while Champlain inherited the exploratory mantle of Jacques Cartier he should be considered France’s most successful explorer, and continues to be so, of French North America. There appears to be little activity by any other Frenchman, not under Champlain’s control.

French North America can be split into two regions, the coastal region south of the St Lawrence called Acadia and the vast areas along the St Lawrence, both north and south and stretching way to the west, called New France.

There have been two phases in Champlain’s current extensive periods of exploration and settlement – the first under Henry IV, with whom Champlain had a most cordial relationship. The second under Louis XIII, a child of nine, after Henry’s assassination in 1610. Until now, his mother Marie de Medici, has been acting as Regent.

With Henry IV, leadership in exploration of North America by the French came from Huguenots. He appointed Sieur de Mons, a Huguenot, lieutenant general of Acadia and New France, who, in turn appointed Samuel de Champlain as his lieutenant. Champlain, based initially in La Rochelle but subsequently Rouen, was a critically important player and was recognized as such by Henry IV. But, he was not considered the right person (not a nobleman) to be appointed head of the French possessions in New France. Sieur de Mons favored exploration and settlement in Acadia, while Champlain favored, and still did, the St Lawrence. But, he followed orders to establish a French settlement in Acadia, first at St Croix on the Atlantic coast, then in a much more favorable, sheltered location at Port Royale, East of Penobscot. They had serious difficulties maintaining the settlement – winters were harsh. Scurvy took a terrible toll.

When Louis XIII ascended the throne, the regent, his mother, an ardent Catholic, replaced de Mons with a series of Catholic noblemen, each of whom reappointed Champlain as their leader on the ground in Canada. Given much greater freedom, Champlain has focused his energy on the St Lawrence. He has established settlements along the river while exploring the country, gauging its commercial viability. He developed good relations with the many Indian tribes he has encountered. He had a number of merchants provide him with financial backing in exchange for commercial gain. As long as he retained the monopoly rights, granted by Louis XIII (and his mother, as Regent) on the produce coming from New France, he hoped to maintain the financial support he needed from his French sponsors. His competitors in France were doing all they could to overturn those rights. They wanted to break into the potentially very lucrative North American market, themselves. Champlain, therefore, had to divide his time between France and New France to protect his financial base (then centered on Rouen). He needed to pay attention to his political base, centered on Paris.  He had to continue to strengthen his settlements and Indian relations in New France.

My reading of this is that he had no time to focus any attention on Acadia. In fact he had no interest in coastal New England. He had much greater opportunity in New France. With respect to England, he was much more concerned about England becoming interested in New France than using Acadian bases to be a nuisance to the English in New England. Therefore, I believe, England had little to fear of encroachment from Acadia. But, and it is a big but, the Indian tribes were a force to be reckoned with. Champlain appeared to be working miracles to make strong alliances with key Indian tribes. Indian tribes allied with the French could cause all sorts of mischief to the English. The English, thanks to Hunt, had a very difficult challenge to rebuild relations to counter such alliances, combined with the epidemic the Indians believed was caused by English fishermen. It is interesting that a similar scourge doesn’t appear to have happen to the French Indians, further evidence pointing at the English.